Will you still string poly even though it seems like you don’t like it?
It’s not that I don’t dislike poly. I just don’t think it’s a good choice for 95% of recreational tennis players. AND I know most people will leave it in their racquets for way too long.
Over the years I’ve learned of a main factor not to use polys:
- If you mishit the ball a lot. Polys have such little forgiveness that mishits will turn into excessive vibration and shock to your arm. I’ve done this with a client before: I will stencil the entire string bed of your racquet with red ink (same ink they use to stencil the racquet logo on the strings). Play with that racquet for a couple of weeks. If that ink is worn down all over the string bed, you probably shouldn’t play with poly because you’re not hitting the ball in the sweet spot. The sweet spot is called that for a reason, it’s where the racquet responds best to striking the ball. Outside of that, you’re going to get excessive vibrations and excessive torque and twisting of your wrist and arm.
Having said all that I do stock a very few select polys which I have played with and am certain they are the most arm friendly polys you can play with but I’ll hybrid them with multi or something to bring the comfort back (all except for Luxilon ALU power-for high level players).
What do your hybrids feel like?
I have gotten some feedback that my hybrids are too soft. Well it’s mostly true. That’s because you are used to SUPER stiff strings and my strings are meant to save your elbow. The only way I know how to do that without you switching to a more flexible racquet is to change your strings to softer strings. Or at least strings that have more forgiving properties than RPM blast. Some hybrids utilize stiff strings but have some stretch to them. I think most often people are just used to that poly stiffness.
Here’s a general guide:
PEEK hybrids: will typically feel like a softer co-poly or synthetic gut (unless the hybrid also has natural gut in it). It’ll have a dynamic response similar to a co-poly.
Natural gut hybrids: will feel super soft and play similar to a full bed of natural gut. Rafa Reinvented feels like a full bed of natural gut too. So does Premium PEEK
Co-Poly hybrids: will typically feel like the stiffness of a full bed of synthetic gut.
Kevlar/aramid hybrids: will feel like a medium stiff poly.
I am constantly experimenting with hybrids to expand my knowledge and can help guide you to get exactly what works for you. However, as mentioned on the website, manufacturers are making more soft co-polys in response to the demand and I am excited for what’s to come in the future.
I like really stiff polyester strings. Which one of your hybrids will get me the same feeling?
Image of Agassi and The Greek “God” are my stiffest hybrids. They have a similar poly feel. Then the next level of stiffness are Gauff For It, Seeking Iga and Merciless Medvedev. The rest of my hybrids will feel quite soft for you.
Typically, we will string 10% higher than your normal polyester tensions which firms up the string bed but, let’s say, you prefer RPM Blast 15L at 63 lbs… there’s unfortunately nothing I have that will simulate THAT kind of stiffness. RPM blast at THAT stiffness is also why you may have arm problems. Consequently, that is the same string and tension Rafa uses. How is it that he doesn’t have massive arm injuries is a complete mystery to me. Unfortunately, so many people want to copy his exact setup and I think it has caused more damage to young and recreational players (and to the sport in general) than people realize. There’s a reason why the public doesn’t use the same tires as Formula 1… it’s dangerous and none of us can drive/play at the level which can utilize the performance it offers.
I prefer poly strings but only restring every few years, can't you restring my racquet with poly?
You may have answered your own question. Because you use poly strings beyond their effective lifespan, I’d rather not put something back into it that will potentially harm your joints. It’s like my car tire analogy. If you’re using them until you see the steel belts, yes you can still drive on them, but they are used to the point of being dangerous. I’d rather not aid and abed. This is why I’ve created all those fun hybrids. Many of those strings can be used beyond their effective lifespan and not hurt your joints and tendons.
What type of natural gut do you use?
Wilson Natural Gut.
Why don't you string a full bed of one kind of string?
I do and I have. However hybrids are more fun. It’s also knowing which ones are better for which application. Some strings are great as a main string but terrible as a cross string and vice versa. I’ve come to know this after testing countless strings.
Having said all that, if there’s a specific type of string you would like strung as a full bed, I will be happy to do it for you.
Can I request specific strings in my hybrid
Yes of course you can. If I have it in stock. If you want some obscure kind of string I would prefer you supply them since I cannot stock even a fraction of the hundreds of strings that are out there. I only stock strings that I know are made to the highest quality standards and that I’ve personally tested before. Also I cannot guarantee your hybrids will work to your liking.
What gear do you use/could you recommend?
Like strings, there is an overwhelming number of manufacturers in the game. Strings, racquets, shoes, grips, overgrips, the list goes on…
Tennis is such a personal game, it all depends on what works best for you. People tend to stick to certain brands and that’s totally fine.
But for me, I’ve found the best to be the following:
Overgrips:
My personal favorite is their new Forte overgrip. It’s thick like the Wilson and Yonex overgrips but does not shred/tear apart. It’s not as tacky or as sweat resistant but I don’t have super sweaty hands so it works perfectly for me. Sometimes I’ll even get 6 months of use out of a single overgrip!
What is all this string pattern talk? Open or closed? What does it mean?
String Pattern
Nowadays, there are a variety of string patterns (16×16, 16×15, etc) but for simplicity sake, we’re going to stick with the two most common string patterns found: 16×19 and 18×20. What do the numbers mean? Here’s an example. Let’s take 16×19 for instance. The first number, 16, is the number of mains in the strings. Those are the ones the run up and down from the top of the head toward the handle. The 2nd number, 19, are the number of cross strings. Those are the ones that run from side to side. The fewer amounts of strings in a racquet will equal more spin. And the more strings will equal more control. Racquet companies Wilson and Prince have come out with some extreme string patterns that are meant to dramatically increase spin (if you use the proper mechanics to create that spin).
Can you give me a crash course on racquet terminology?
Picking out a new racquet for yourself or a loved one can be daunting. With 20 different brands and hundreds of different models, choosing the right racquet can make one’s head spin. Kind of like what happens to me when I walk into a perfume store or cereal aisle. I think sometimes, we forget not everyone is as into tennis as we are. Our everyday tennis vernacular isn’t very everyday and common to most recreational players. So I want to break down racquet terminology in layman’s terms in hopes of clarifying what makes racquets play and perform the way they do so you can make a more informed decision before buying your next racquet.
Head size
Mid – Less than 95 square inches (example: Wilson Pro Staff 6.0 85)
Oversize – 105+ square inches (example: Prince Premier 115L ESP)
When we’re talking head size, we’re talking about the size of the racquet head (where the strings are). Obvious, I know. The larger the head size, the larger the sweetspot. Usually, a racquet’s headsize is in proportion to the level of player the racquet was designed for. Key word being “usually.” So racquets with an oversize head (105 sq in and bigger), tend to be meant for beginner players who need that bigger sweetspot and more power. They also tend to be more stable for those times the ball isn’t hit exactly in the sweetspot. And racquets that have mid size head’s are meant for the more advanced player.
String Pattern
Nowadays, there are a variety of string patterns (16×16, 16×15, etc) but for simplicity sake, we’re going to stick with the two most common string patterns found: 16×19 and 18×20. What do the numbers mean? Here’s an example. Let’s take 16×19 for instance. The first number, 16, is the number of mains in the strings. Those are the ones the run up and down from the top of the head toward the handle. The 2nd number, 19, are the number of cross strings. Those are the ones that run from side to side. The fewer amounts of strings in a racquet will equal more spin. And the more strings will equal more control. Racquet companies Wilson and Prince have come out with some extreme string patterns that are meant to dramatically increase spin.
Weight
Light – Under 10 ounces
Heavy – 11.6 and up
Pretty self explanatory here. Like with head size, the weight of a racquet typically goes with the level of player the racquet is meant for. A beginner player, or a player that needs help generating power and racquet head speed, will go with a lightweight racquet. Intermediate players typically pick racquets up in the medium weight range while advanced, high level players will choose the heavy racquets.
Balance
Head light
Head Heavy
This is probably the most confusing spec we have listed for a racquet. We get lots of questions about this so I’ll do my best to clarify and simplify this. The balance of a racquet refers to where the weight of the racquet is located. If most of the racquet weight is found in the head of the racquet, it is considered head heavy. Conversely, if most of the racquet weight is located toward the handle, it would be considered head light. And if the racquet is perfectly balanced, it would be labeled as even. Picture yourself holding a hammer. if you hold it as you would to hammer a nail, you can really feel the weight of it, and if you try to take a swing, it takes some energy to do so (head heavy). But if you flipped it around and held the hammer with the heavy part in your hand and try swinging, you’ll notice it is much easier to swing with (head light). As far as the number that listed, that just refers to how head heavy or head light it is. The larger the number, the more dramatic it is. A racquet that is 12 points head heavy will feel much more sluggish than a racquet that is 1 point head heavy.
Swingweight
High – 330+
Low – 310 and below
It is my personal opinion that swingweight is the more important than weight or balance because it is the effort you must put into swinging the racquet.
Swingweight is measured from 0-1000. It’s a number/spec that is specific to the racquet industry, so don’t expect to see this anywhere else. Simply put, the higher the swingweight, the harder it is to swing. The lower it is, the easier the racquet is to swing. With these modern day racquets, you’ll find 99% of the racquets to measure between 280 – 350. The advantage of having a low swingweight is: easy to generate racquet head speed, so it’s easier to generate spin. The advantages of having a high swingweight: more power and more stability. And if you choose a racquet in between, you get a blend of both.
Stiffness
Low – 60 and below
High – 69 and above
Stiffness is measured from 0-100. The majority of racquets will fall in between the 50 to 80 range. This spec is a measure of how stiff a racquet is. Why does that matter to you, the player? The stiffer a racquet, the more powerful it is. But at the same time, it will also be more harsh on your arm. So if you suffer from any arm issues, I wouldn’t recommend picking a racquet with a high stiffness rating. With so many specs to look at, you probably won’t be able to find a racquet that has every spec that is ideal for you. Which is why racquet customization has gotten very popular. But that’s a whole other article. Which specs are most important? If I asked that question to 20 different employees here, I’d get back 10-15 different answers. Armed with your newfound knowledge, it’s up to you to decide what specs you want to put more weight on. Good luck.
I still have arm problems after I tried your hybrids
I cannot guarantee these strings will fix your problems but finding the right string setup for you is a process of discovery and I enjoy the journey. I hope you do as well and not just the destination. You ultimately may need to switch racquets to suite your needs. But let’s try some other steps before you have to resort to giving up your beloved Babolat.
So I’ve come to learn one important fact for tennis players: how often do you mis-hit the ball? Meaning, do you hit the sweet spot every time? or are you just hitting it anywhere on the strings? I’m beginning to realize the mis-hitting, combined with a stiff racquet and coupled with stiff polyester strings that have almost ZERO give, are really what contributes to a lot of injuries (yes, I know there’s repetitive movement, ball impact, poor biomechanics, etc).
Another option: we could try to change the grip. Most racquets come with a very basic synthetic grip which isn’t the best at absorbing shock. They’re just super cheap. I can replace it with a gel based grip which helps absorb the shock and impact. I actually use gel grips on my racquets. Keep in mind that this doesn’t stop that pinging sound when you hit the ball. It only minutely changes the shock your arm will experience when striking the ball. It’s worth a try.
Final option: you may just have to switch to a totally different racquet. One with an RA of no more than 62. RA is the industry standard for measuring racquet stiffness.
Last resort: Get a Wilson Clash. It is the softest modern playing racquet I have ever used in my entire life. It’s amazing actually. So comfortable. Don’t put poly in a Clash because it can still give you tennis elbow but knowing how poly has affected so many people, it is the best racquet tech of the century, in my opinion.
My first hit with your hybrid doesn't feel as sweet as my first hit with poly
This is one fundamental difference between the strings I choose vs polys. That’s because they’re designed to last over time. It usually takes 1-2 sessions for the strings to settle and stabilize. One they stabilize, the will get better with time. Especially with the multifilament and natural guy hybrids. They usually feel the best right before they break.
Polys are the exact opposite. They are designed to play amazing for the first 1-2 sessions, then they are done (and typically immediately restrung). This is one of the main reasons why so many professionals use polys. And also why we shouldn’t. Well, I won’t limit you from doing EXACTLY what the pros do. You can but I also wouldn’t advise you to put Formula 1 tires on your car, giving you the reason of optimal performance, knowing that the tires only last about 100 miles and not tell you that they become dangerous once they wear out…
Where is your shop? What are your hours?
I’m just an enthusiast of the game of tennis and I do this on the side. Not a brick and mortar shop.
Do you pick-up or deliver?
I cannot pick-up or deliver your racquets.
Do you have any guarantees or warranties on your strings or stringing?
I do take the best care when stringing and I stand by my work. I do not have any warranties or guarantees on the strings.
Tennis is an impact sport. So once you start hitting, I have no idea what might cause premature string breakage.
Also, the nature of some racquets lead to strings constantly breaking. If you’ve got a whippy topspin forehand and you’re using a Spin Effect racquet then you will probably saw through strings rather quickly.
Finally, natural gut is an organic material and isn’t manufactured. It naturally has imperfections which cannot always be detected and therefore I unfortunately cannot warranty the string.